1. 16x16, 256 sq ft + loft.
This amounts to 384 sq. ft, divided on two levels. The loft will have full head room under the ridge only so those 128 sq. ft are less ‘honest’, but will still provide a fair bit of storage along the low walls.

2. Permit??
The Methow has a history of ‘hippie shacks’ and other non permitted living structures. Currently there’s a proliferation of full time yurt dwellers, technically legal only for a 30 day occupancy per year. Given the small size and shed/shop appearance of our project it seems possible that we can get away without a permit, even though times are definitely changing, even here. ‘The secret is out about the Methow’. The thing to say and almost believe in (and it could go that way) is this is a ‘builder shed’ for storage and overnighting when constructing our real home. Some comfort could definitely be gained from acquiring a shed permit.

3. Pier foundation, with precast patio supports, only dug in to max 6”- 8”.
Here’s a technique where I will have to rely heavily on the beta from countryplans.com. I have plenty of faith in the virtues of such a shallow no concrete option, but must do it right. Starting out with dry, frost free ground is, in my opinion imperative. Then it is just a question of removing the top layers of organic matter, putting down a couple of handfuls of pea gravel, some patio pavers of the appropriate size with the precast pier on top. Adding short posts of 4x4 on the posts will raise the building enough to do the additions with shed roof from the existing roof line. Again according to countryplans.com

4. R 30 fiberglass batts in floor. Reflectix directly below plywood.
R 30 means 2 x 10’s. The Reflectix adds greatly to the R-value, but first we must attach the fiber glass batts by stapling on the side of the joists.

5. Paint and caulk floor as soon as done.
When the plywood subfloor (which at least in the beginning will be the actual floor) is down, it is important to seal and paint as soon as possible in case of rain or snow. This can be done really easily the same day with the supplies already there. Durable deck/porch paint is needed.

6. 2x4 walls with 1” thermax boards taped and sealed on interior surface.
2x4 walls are skimpy but the east and west ones will have additions covering the entire exterior, so lots of work and expense here is probably unjustifiable. The north and south wall will remain unchanged as the cabin evolves so here we can make efforts. North and south will be double 2x4 with fiber glass batts. After all, since a true passive solar design will be to costly and complicated, super insulation is the way to go.

7. Painted T1-11 like exterior.
T1-11 is not the most charming product, but it is strong and utilitarian. What color to choose is up in the air. The other option is leave it unpainted until the additions are up and then side the entire cabin with metal roofing material as we see on more than a few houses here in the Methow. But that poses a whole other set of problems.

8. 8 foot walls with corrugated metal siding and drip edges on bottom 2 1/2 feet.
The metal will be screwed to cement boards and go a couple of inches into the ground to provide a durable ‘skirt’ around the building and effectively seal off the crawlspace. Contrasting color to siding (galvanized skirt, green siding?).

9. Crawl space vents.

10. Metal roof.
This seems to be the only option in these parts. A light color is best for heat reflection, but will it look all right? With the gable facing the approach the roof color is less visible and an odd one is okay.

11. Ridge vent incorporated in roof design.
Description in little house plans.

12. Blown in insulation in walls and rafters by local contractor.
BIBs in walls and rafters is key, see #9 for more. 2x6 rafters is probably enough to give a high r value, depending on what the plans specify.

13. Probably not working as a genuine passive solar concept. Lacking thermal mass due to foundation type.
Yes, and that’s why abundant insulation is critical, together with effective thermal covers on openings. Our foundation type probably can’t support the heavy load of adequate mass, or at least I’m unwilling to test it out, but we will get a cabin that’s easy to heat (small, tight space).
Summertime cooling is the remaining challenge.

14. Hand pump on well.
Since we have decided to go off-the-grid for practical and ideological reasons, this is one of the two options to get water out the ground (solar is the other). Simple Pump from Survival Unlimited? seems to be a good one. Lehmans are $1000.00 or more complete. Hopefully the well is less than 150’ to static water level.

15. Water storage facilities for 1000 gallons.
Above system delivers only when you’re hard at work pumping, so for emergencies (fire) and irrigation some large capacity storage is needed. 1000 gls is a guess. This must be hooked up to generator power. Another option is to run an AC pump down the well parallel to the hand pump.

16. PV modules for simple needs, propane generator for shop use.
Our household electrical needs have historically been very low, even including the fridge, so a PV system will be relatively affordable. For shop use and emergencies a small to medium sized propane generator will be installed. The things in the house that needs electricity are limited: lights, fridge, computer, computer accessories, blender, radio.

17. Gray water system.
Going without a permit will allow us to forego the ridiculous septic systems required by our reactionary, narrow minded officials. Gray water recycling works and after some research we will be able to do this too. There will only be one drain in the house: Kitchen sink. Future laundry facilities will be located in another structure.

18. Homemade composting toilet in small independent building, plus outhouse for initial use.
Instead of an expensive, inadequate plastic composter, it will be better to built our own in a small regular outhouse. The best system seems to be two fair sized concrete tanks, one in use for two years while the other completes the breakdown cycle. Lined with straw and frequently covered with wet sawdust it should compost thermophilically.

19. Small secondary bath inside house.
For space concerns and to keep the overall plumbing simple this is very secondary. There’s space for a 3’ wide room for the occasional bucket bath. More like a storage room, with lots of high shelves. No plumbing or drains in here, but heavy water proofing on floor and lower walls.
Ventilation too. A sawdust toilet can also be installed there for complete indoor facilities to be used under inclement weather conditions.

20. Loft only over back half of house. The rest seasonally covered with canvas.
This was a ‘feel good’ decision. High ceilings are attractive and probably an advantage on hot summer days. Anyway after again incorporating the loft idea and then limiting it to half the space things kinda fell in place. The half loft layout is so classic ‘cabin’ that it had to be present in our rendition. To overcome the major shortfall of heat rising and the resulting cold floors we will have a seasonal canvas ‘ceiling’ snapped in place and supported by a small beam or ropes. This is supposed to trap most of the heat downstairs but, unlike a solid floor/ceiling it will still leak a small amount of needed warm air to rise to the loft. In summer it will easily come down and allow a cooler downstairs. As long as we sleep in the loft (until wings are build) some sort of summer drape/curtain is needed to keep the loft isolated from the living area for bjorn etc to go to bed early and have peace.

21. Insulated window/door coverings against cold and heat.
One option is some polarguard style batts sandwiched between reflectix and other fabric on inside. It is rolled up and fastened above opening when not in use. Velcro insures a tight seal. One can also devise some sort of swing away rigid insulation shutter. Or as in habegger thermax and shock cord.

22. SunDanzer fridge from Survival Unlimited or propane fridge.
The SunDanzer option is intriguing. It is supplied with a solar direct system that only works when sun is shining minimum 5 hrs (summer, perfect!), and has thermal mass and insulation to insure 7 days reefing w/o power. In winter the plan is to supplement with a passive system, see #39. It’s a chest like thing, something to get used to. $1100.00. Propane is good to but not free in use like above.

23. Some method of safeguarding Bjorn from ladder falls.
A crash pad like thing on the floor. Probably not in the way there right in front of the couch. Equally important is cushioning the edge of the elevated couch structure.

24. Wood stove with outside combustion air intake.
A modern hi tech stove is an amazing source of heat, and well worth the expenditure. Drawing air from the outside helps improve the efficiency, and this vent must penetrate thru the south wall.

25. Cement boards, stained and sealed as wood stove heat shield.
Truly an experiment. If it looks like shit it’s easy to redo, since cement boards are step one to tiling. The challenge will be to trim these boards tastefully with non combustibles.

26. Colored concrete patio pavers as hearth.
Why not?

27. Passive solar collector panels under south windows
Idea gleamed from that little amazing book from the Big Bear library. Forgot the title and author but remember most of the construction details. Plexiglas covered shallow boxes containing sheets of corrugated metal roofing painted matte black with stove paint. High and low vents between the collector and the house automatically creates the needed airflow. Doesn’t compromise the insulated envelope unlike large expanses of glass.

28. Chico bed.
A safe place out of the way. The ‘couch’ will be a framed platform high enough to allow for storage and doggie sleeping quarters below. See also # 47.

29. Double door on south side.
How to do this is still unclear. Don’t want a mud room that sticks out and obscures the precious sun.

30. Hand pump from Lehmans on kitchen sink.
These are essential to facilitate a non pressurized system. Precise details will require more research or possible trial and error.

31. Group all the plumbing (-kitchen sink) together in separate bath house.
Almost necessary due to small size of cabin. Structure will include bathing, washing and pooping, and be as small as possible. Just like wing additions, design will not be finalized until later, much later.

32. Propane piped in walls to kitchen stove and opt. fridge.
This will be done by an expert. It is our hope that we can supply all our propane needs from 2 or 3 20 lb. tanks that we fill ourselves. Another step to get off-the-grid. By the way if the only remaining appliance in the house needing propane (after my rather significant weeding out of the unnecessary) is the stove then it will be a simple thru the wall installation easily done as a retrofit after the cabin is built. Oh, the stove is not on an exterior wall after add-ons are done...and don’t forget the generator.

33. Night potty in loft.
Due to the necessary steepness of the ladder/stairs a peeing arrangement is needed in the sleeping loft. This is best accomplished by a sawdust toilet.

34. Fire escape in loft.
Thru a large window in the north gable end. Must remember to install windows large enough. A roll up ladder might be needed.

35. Carpet in loft.
No further comments.

36. Painted plywood floors downstairs initially.
Could be done attractive enough to endure the critical eye of the builder. Certainly simple, low cost and durable. Alternatives for installation during future idle times are 2x6 t&g, Pergo like products or even tiles if the foundation proves frost proof.

37. 12’ x 16’ Trex porch on south side.
Must admit that den småborgerlige in me always wanted a porch, of wood (like) material and elevated, even fenced. A few seemingly random placed chairs of obvious quality are mandatory on such a platform of stated superiority. Possibly move this one away from the house (and connect via ‘bridge’) to allow crawl space access. Also maybe build in fire ring/seating. See # 43.

38. Passive cooling refrigerator ‘cupboard’ for cold weather use.
This is inspired by that crazy Earth Ship guy from Taos and brought into concept by Sonja, unknowingly. There has to be room for such a thing. With these cold long winters just the thought of turning your ‘frigetor’ off in October and leaving it off till March is so appealing. It would surely work. On the north side, rodent proofed by fine metal mesh and lined with thermal mass bricks. An insulated door on the outside to be closed during the day could be added to extend the season. Even in summer it would provide cool storage. For security reasons when leaving one should install a lock on the kitchen side door.

39. T & G on downstairs walls. Drywall under for fire protection.
In my opinion this looks best when nailed on vertically, but that’s not possible. Diagonal can be worked into the design in places. Drywall is hard to tape and finish satisfactorily and the pros are expensive. For the same amount as their labor I can get t&g and install myself. If there’s energy and time available when needed it would be comforting to have plain unfinished drywall under the t&g for fire protection.

40. Straw board on loft walls and downstairs ceiling.

Seen them at Environmental Home Center in Seattle. It is rather attractive, and the price is not bad. For the loft walls it is ideal (I hope), especially painted creamy white with vertical battens 2 feet OC. A low cost, easy install option for the downstairs ceilings too. These will have exposed joists so most of seams will be hidden. Maybe all if we do a central longitudinal beam.

41. Shelves in kitchen, no cabinets.
Cabinets are hard to build and out of proportion with this humble cabin and the small amount of goods we need stored. Shelves can easily be made very attractive with wainscoting and paint, plus a few carefully selected items on display. Likewise under the counters. No cabinets, just more shelves and fabric ‘curtains’. A handful of small boxes on tightly spaced shelves work as drawers. If there are no legs or other cumbersome support structure for the counters cleaning the floor is a breeze.

42. Expansion in the form of 8/10x16/20 wings prepared to the east and west.
This is another whole chapter. It affects stage one, the 16x16 cabin, very little. Since this is so small these additions must go up. I think. It is very unlikely that we will be happy with the 16 footer forever. We will see.

43. Fire circle with benches.
Essential for social events, even if no fire is made. One location could be at southern terminus of deck.

44. Ladder as access to loft.
This project will not be finalized until the cabin is built. It doesn’t have much room where it will need to go, but must be as safe and convenient as possible. A simple ladder on casters so it can slide out to a more reasonable angle when used is an idea. A retaining strap tied to the bottom rung and the wall keeps it secure. The ladder extends up into the loft a couple of steps to make initial down climbing easier. The hole in the floor have a hinged door for heating control, and be notched for the ladder.

45. Single basin kitchen sink.
No need for any more. No room is more accurately stated.

46. Elevated platform, about 3’ x 7’ with storage below, as couch etc.
I think this is a great idea. Sonja not so much. It is cheaper than buying a couch, provides tons of much needed storage, elevates you further of the cold floor, utilizes the space to the fullest, serves as a spare bed for one person, is easy to build. With plenty of loose pillows and a couple of therm-a-rests (which need to go somewhere anyway) it will be plenty comfy. A cozy, warm corner, the inner most sanctuary. Maybe do a lower platform in front as a step and slightly elevated space to sit and get shoulder massage.

47. Build-in bookshelves/storage on many interior walls.
These will look good and save on expensive t&g. In a small cabin plenty of storage is a must. Exact construction details are still in the works. Shelves and major support pieces will be MDF, backing maybe drywall, pine trim.

48. 3’ perimeter around building free of vegetation, covered with pea gravel.
This is functional and easy to do. Further expansion on this project could be horizontally buried foam boards to protect the shallow foundation, weed blankets under the gravel, neat borders of railroad ties pegged in place.

49. Thermal mass: water tubes near solar collector vents.
Yes, if the cabin is holding up and the funds are there some water barrels under the windows on the south side would add to the efficiency of the solar collectors. Thermal mass of any configuration is needed in this design, but space and weight concerns limit the amount.

50. Water tank in crawl space directly below kitchen sink handpump, or in cabinet up in cabin.
It do not have to be too big, but shape is important to maximize space usage. It will have a fill pipe going thru the metal skirt, for dumping in water from a truck or from the well some way or another. Should be frost proof down there but obviously difficult to service. Sounds like a good idea, with minimal plumbing and excavating. It can also be integrated in the cabinet under the sink and insulated. Can’t be used as themal mass since it is frequently exchanged. This latter option is likely to be the one.

51. Laundry?
The big topic. Not inside the cabin that’s for sure. No room. It will take place in the bath building, but how? Further research needed.